Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950 at V&A

The word ‘ballgown’ conjures up many different notions of style. It makes me think of animated Disney princesses, Audrey Hepburn as Sabrina, Grace Kelly’s poise captured in black and white photos, and lavish charity events in grand, sweeping ballrooms. Regardless of your interpretation, the latest exhibition at the V&A will no doubt tap in to your own princess fantasies.

Housed in the newly renovated Fashion wing of the V&A, Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950, showcases a collection exquisite dresses, dating from the 1950s to the modern day, and includes designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Elizabeth Emmanuel (on half of the design team that made Princess Diana’s epic wedding dress) and Bellville Sassoon.

The exhibition is split over two levels. Downstairs the gowns are grouped vaguely according to colour, ranging from cinched waists and endless layers of silk organza, to oversized bows and neat rows of hand-sewn pearls. Short films are projected onto one wall which show adverts and documentaries of fashion houses from the 50s and 60s unveiling new collections in grand country mansions, displayed on models with pristine make-up and permeant smiles.

A Victor Stiebel dress on display at the V&A’s Ballgowns exhibition

A modern, sweeping double entrance staircase in crisp white leads visitors to the upper level, where the museum has chosen to showcase a more modern take on these fairytale gowns. White wooden imitation chandeliers hang from the ceiling and ballroom dancing steps have been painted onto the white floor. Giant, peralescent balls form large-scale pearl necklaces, draped around each of the three stands, which house half a dozen dresses each.

Photographs of ballgowns from the V&A’s permanent collection are projected onto each of the four alcoves of the dome ceiling. It’s up here that young British designers take centre stage, with creations from Jonathan Saunders, Alexander McQueen, and Nicolas Oakenwell. These gowns are far more modern, and aren’t necessarily how I would picture a ballgown, but they demonstrate how the dresses featured on the ground floor have influenced current designers.

I fell in love with a 1950s design by Victor Stiebel, above, made from silk tafita and organza. The simplicity of the faded teal gown over the striped underskirt is, to me, sublime – simple and understated, but beautiful all the same.

Marcel Fromenti drawing from the V&A archives

There was a strict no photography (or even drawing) policy at the exhibition, but fortunately Harrods have also collaborated with the V&A to showcase their own collection of gowns, which is where the photos (top and below) in this post were taken. While in London it felt like the whole city had Ballgowns fever – even Miss Selfridge on Oxford Street had filled their shop with decadently dresses mannequins.

Ballgowns window display at Harrods

I thought the exhibition was wonderful, with a brilliant mix of old and new (such as a Gareth Pugh mirrorball dress) and it opened my eyes to a whole wealth of designers I’d never heard of before. While there (on a Thursday afternoon) the exhibtion was swarming with women of all ages and I think it (and the rest of the V&A) would be a great destination to take your mum or grandma. There is also a programme of free events and talks running alongside the exhibition, which sounds incredible – definitely worth coming back to London for!

Have you been to see Ballgowns yet? What did you think of it and was there a stand-out dress you loved?

Tickets: £10, concessions available. This exhibition runs until January 2013 so there’s no excuse not to see it! For more information and a list of events and lectures, visit the V&A website.

Welcome to the Garment Quarter

Cabot Circus/Quakers Friars welcomed a new boutique to Penn Street last Thursday, in the form of Garment Quarter. My partner in crime and I were lucky enough to attend the launch party and have a natter with the masterminds of this high concept, service-with-a-smile designer boutique. Oh, and I’m now in lust with a pair of Vivienne Westwood ‘Melissa’ shoes…

I’ve been a bit naughty as I should have typed my ramblings on GQ up on Friday but instead I headed up to Doncaster to see some very dear friends – who don’t have the internet. Coming from a city where I am hooked up to the net as if intravenously, I struggled with not having Google at my beck and call and developed some major withdrawal symptoms, especially on the train home yesterday when a businessman with a laptop sat next to me and started playing online Solitaire.

Anywho, I digress. The purpose of this post is to say what a genuinely lovely time we had on Thursday, and it has very little to do with the champagne and sushi we knocked back, and more to do with the lovely chaps behind Garment Quarter, who were kind enough to chat with us about their new retail empire.

As a former buyer for fashion franchise Herviea, owner John Reid decided to take his merry band of merry men south from Manchester to our very own Bristol. Drawn by the quirky sensibilities of the city and a gap in the market Garment Quarter was born. Cabot Circus was an obvious choice where the boutique is already proving to hold its own against the likes of Harvey Nichols, drawing in a wide range of customers it’s first two weeks.

Ship-Shape had a natter with John and his colleague Patrick who told us why they think GQ will suit Bristol shoppers. “The focus is on providing individual, tailored service to all our customers. We’re already seeing return customers and beginning to get to know and anticipate their needs for the coming seasons.”

Although the boys have been working solidly on Garment Quarter since moving to Bristol a few weeks ago, they have still been able to squeeze in a little down time and experience Bristol’s infamous nightlife. Both the boys have been pleasantly surprised at how welcoming the city’s inhabitants have been; “I thought with Bristol being down South that the people would be a bit unfriendly” commented Patrick “but everyone we’ve met have been really nice and relaxed”.

While S gave Patrick tips on the house music scene in Bristol, John gave me a hint of the kind of customers that have been frequenting the store. “The location is great and we’ve had lots of Saturday shoppers come in, as well as students and local footballers looking for something special. What we’re offering is pretty unique to Bristol and with the range of labels there is something to suit everyone”.

Naturally Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label and Gold Label lines are present, as is Twenty8Twelve, Alexander McQueen (just men’s underwear at present but hopefully more to follow) and emerging designers such as Ashley Marc Hovelle, who attended the launch.

Already there is talk of expansion and Patrick hinted that GQ could soon be setting up shop in neighbouring Bath. My fingers are crossed for John and the boys – all the stock in Garment Quarter has been handpicked and the focus is on individual care and customer service, something that while shine in its high street surroundings.

Garment Quarter, 25 Penn Street, Cabot Circus.

 

My partner in crime, S, and the lovely Patrick

 

 

Why hello, Melissa...

 

 

DJ, champagne and jelly shoes set the theme

Vivienne Westwood Red Label takes pride of place...

Bristol's best dressed men have been snapping up these plastic lilac loafers

 

Graduate Fashion Week

For every fashion student there is a pinnacle event that signifies the end of your degree and three years of hard work, blood, sweat and (quite often) tears; Graduate Fashion Week.

Now in it’s 19th year, GFW is still the best place to see emerging British talent and put your fledgling brand on the fashion map. As always Bristol’s University of the West of England (UWE) will be sending their best designs down the runway, including Amber Hards’ creations, below.

Amber, along with fellow UWE student Vanessa Harris, has been shortlisted for the Fashion Innovation Award which is sponsored by Hammerson, the owners of Bristol’s very own fashion behemoth, Cabot Circus.

The award is aimed at students who take a more ‘cutting edge’ approach to their designs and Amber made the cut by creating a knitwear collection inspired by the form and movement of jellyfish. Intricate methods and hooking techniques combined with innovative yarns secured a place on the shortlist and this is not the first time that UWE students have made an impression at GFW.

Above: Sketches show the intricacy of Hards' knitwear designs

In 2007 UWE graduate Nick Thomas won the River Island Gold Award for his knitwear collection and in 2005 UWE alumni Jess Noy won the same award for her deconstructed denim collection.

The event itself attracts plenty of press attention and with schools such as Central St Martins taking part, some shows are sold out weeks in advance – the likes of Christopher Kane and the late Alexander McQueen have had their graduate collections snapped up off the back of GFW and the shows are truly inspiring for students and industry insiders alike.

Graduate Fashion Week runs from 6th – 10th June at Earls Court and the UWE show takes place at 7pm on Sunday. For more information and tickets click here.

>Bristol Fashion Week pt. 1

>

What a day! I’ve just come back from an afternoon at Bristol Fashion Week at Cribbs Causeway, which started today amid the heavy rain and wind. In case you were wondering, BFW is the bi-annual fashion event that showcases what all us Bristolians should be wearing over the coming months, that takes place at The Mall at Cribbs, running from today until Sunday 28th March.

Expecting just another Spring/Summer fashion show my partner in crime and I were delighted to fit in a whole day of activities including a free foundation consultation, info on what colours suit us and a goodie bag packed full of discounts to use in the Mall.

The nibbles and bucks fizz, courtesy of Marks & Spencer, soon made up for my soaking wet hair and damp clothes and we soon found ourselves in the hands of GMTV’s Mark Heyes and Andrew Barton who hosted the show. Matching monochrome suits and self-promotion aside, these dandy gents provided the entertainment between scenes and even attempted to master the underwear as outwear look – with humorous results.

John Lewis kicked off the event and, along with fellow BFW sponsor Marks & Spencer showed strong collections that could compete with some of the younger brands. Acid pink tights, bright prints and rather exciting scallop edged coat from Jersie were on the agenda in the first half while the department store giant later showed off with a Sex And The City inspired take on florals and tailoring.

Marks & Spencer attempted a literal take on the underwear as outerwear look with mixed results but their nautical and ladylike dresses (think navy, sailor red and lots of polka dots) were a hit in the second half of the show.

Menswear and childrenswear were also catered for, with the likes of Bank, River Island and USC representing military and double denim trends.

The late Alexander McQueen received a tribute from the presenters and Bad Romance by Lady Gaga pumped out from the speakers as digital prints from Next strutted down the runway. The bright colours, figure hugging silhouettes and stylized head-gear made an impact as the models danced in a jerky, robot style, faces covered by yards of black netting that Gareth Pugh would be proud of. I was surprised by how moving the scene was and the late British designer’s essence was clear to see in the futuristic, graphic prints, bold colours and use of trip-inducing accessories.

Dorothy Perkins were also a surprise hit, bringing back not only culottes but navy and white polka dot culottes! The outfits were nautical, quirky and terribly girly, and have succeeded in making me covet a pair of navy blue culottes, oh, and maybe a floral pair too… but I digress. Fashions from Karen Millen were graphic blocks of monochrome with hints of electric blue, with tailoring inspired by the infamous Herve Leger bandage dresses.

The black lace and powder pink collection from Jane Norman had myself and my fashionable friend divided – mini pink trench coats and black lace ‘bodies’ were Parisian chic in one corner and more French maid in the other.

Before we knew it the show was over but we managed to entertain ourselves for the rest of the afternoon, armed with our goodie bags and a renewed sense of anticipation for Spring/Summer 2010 collections. We even had a colour consultancy and make up tutorials but more on that later. I won’t divulge too much only to write that apparently my must-have colour is, shudder, coral…

There are a few photos below but I’ll post some more once my memory card reader has stopped conspiring against me.

Tickets can be yours for less than a tenner so if you would like more information about tickets and show times, please see The Mall website. Shows run throughout the weekend and the event end on 28th March.

Andrew and Mark introduce the show

Marks & Spencer with a literal take on the underwear as outerwear trend

More Marks & Spencer, working ladylike tailoring and nautical polka dots

Competition winner Barbra after her M&S makeover

Body con corsets and leather from Marks & Spencer

Next pays homage to Alexander McQueen with digital prints

Menswear goes military at River Island

La Senza teamed up with USC for the double denim trend

GMTV’s Ness works polka dots on the catwalk

John Lewis come over all Sex And The City in the second half of the show

>
Being out of the country and away from the life support that is The Internet, I’ve only just found out that the legendary British fashion designer Alexander McQueen died yesterday. The press do not yet know, or perhaps have just not yet told the awaiting public how McQueen died, only that he was found in his home by his housekeeper early yesterday morning.

I suppose I’m in a state of shock really, although it sounds so overly dramatic and self-involved to write such a thing. Its like remembering where you were when Michael Jackson died and I don’t think it is audacious to say that McQueen gave as much to the fashion world as Jackson did to the music world.

The picture above is from a shoot for Dazed & Confused in 1998, entitled Access-able, that featured McQueen’s designs on models with physical disabilities. Shot by Nick Knight, this was the first time I had heard of McQueen (or Knight for that matter) and fell in love with the spread. I think it is a testament to his desire to go against the grain and stick two fingers up at the fashion world. Love it.
Image courtesy of The Independent.